Land Rover Perentie Shark fin snorkel installation instructions
Landrover Perentie shark fin snorkel install guide
This is a copy of the instructions for the Shark fin snorkel I make up for these vehicles. They are quite easy to install and only require basic hand tools and a bit of time. You can find a link to the product here
1: Remove the plastic vent cover (and old seal if it has one) from the driver’s side wing top. Disconnect the air intake hose from where it’s attached to the wheel well. Remove the metal assembly from the end of the air hose, keep the hose clamp. This was fiddly on my Perentie, be careful not to damage the hose.
2: Grab the steel intake with attached lower seal and sit in the wing top vent. Re attach the air hose to the end of this and secure using the hose clamp. Install 3 of the self-tapping screws Into the positions pictured below and secure down tightly. Leave the other spaces blank for now.
3: Drilling the holes. Use a 5.5mm or 6mm drill bit for the holes in the snorkel. The 4 holes marked in the image below are to align with the lower snorkel intake holes. The positions I drilled these holes are marked by raised bumps on the shark fin snorkel base. My positioning is where they would be located originally. The right-hand side of the snorkel should follow the line between the wing top panels. See pic on last page.
The rest of the mounting holes are as pictured below left, use this image as a guide - it's not as crucial where these last 6 holes go so don’t stress. (The most important are the 4 holes marked above). Drill the remaining 6 holes in the snorkel, then place this over the guard, then mark and drill the guard. You should end up with something looking like the images below. 6 extra holes will need to be drilled into the guard.
4: Securing the shark fin snorkel. There will be 4 self-tapping screws left, these go into the holes you made that align with the lower intake. Like in the image below.
There will be 6 left over button head screws, with washers and nylock nuts to suit. Instal these into the remaining holes – Washers go under bolt heads and under nylocks. This is probably the most difficult part of the whole install, very fiddly. I managed to get everything attached without removing anything from the engine bay.. those who want a challenge - give it a go this way. Removing the radiator overflow would probably make this task easier though.
5: Align the snorkel. The edge of the snorkel should follow the outside joint between the guard panels like pictured, if you’ve drilled 6mm holes in the snorkel you will get a bit of movement to fine tune its position. Once you’re happy with positioning tighten down the self-tappers completely and tighten all the M5 Button head screws. Tighten everything in an even pattern. Don’t overtighten, this could damage the snorkel.
- The position described above allows the front window to be folded down and secured to the bonnet like intended originally.
- The sponge rubber seals provided do a good job of sealing everything, and evening out any imperfections in the base of the snorkel and wing top. But for peace of mind and especially if your wingtop is bent out of shape (lots are) you could add a bead of Silicon or similar.
- The sponge rubber seals are thick, if the snorkel doesn’t sit even on your guard then you can tighten one side more than the other etc to level out. They still seal fine even when not squashed right down.
- Check your air intake hose for holes, mine was stuffed as it had been rubbing. “Proflow” in Australia have this “Silicone Brake Duct Hose 3.0 inch,2” its about $50. And looks like original. I've posted a link to it here
- An alternative to the M5 fasteners could be rivnuts, my guard was full of bog.. so I didn’t try this but it could make installing and removing the snorkel easier.
- A little bit of grease under the washers can help stick them to the underside of the guard.
If you have any questions you can message me directly here